The world sure feels like a small place some days. And I can personally attest to the fact that Canada is really, really big, so that’s saying something.
Yesterday at our bed and breakfast in St. John’s, we chatted with a couple who’d lived in Edmonton earlier in their lives. As we conversed, it turned out they had actually lived for a few years in St. Albert when they were in the region too.
I thought that was a funny coincidence since until I left at the end of June I worked for the community paper in St. Albert. Then I went to breakfast today, where it turned out the woman I was sitting next to actually lives in my hometown of Maple Ridge, B.C. I even know precisely which condo complex she is in because a friend of mine used to live there.
Anyways, geographical coincidences aside, yesterday we explored St. John’s, the oldest city in North America. We went up Signal Hill, enjoying the fabulous sun and view of St. John’s and it’s harbour. While apparently Newfoundland in general has been having a hideous summer, we have mostly lucked out. And, since I lost yet another tube of sunscreen (two so far this summer), I have a slight sunburn to show for it.
More importantly, what little whale action I managed to see I spotted here. Nothing too exciting, just some blowholes and some back/fin action.
We went out to Cape Spear, so I could see the lighthouse, where they used to keep the light burning but also signal Signal Hill about what boats are coming in, but also so we could go to the most eastern point in Canada.
Despite promising any passing whales bread crumbs, I got no further appearances here, even though everyone else I talked to seemed to see whales here on their visits.
We took a stroll down Water Street, the oldest commercial street in North America. We also checked out the Johnson Geo Centre, which you might gather specializes in geology. It’s also mostly underground. The main exhibit was well-worth the visit, and confirmed that there are some similarities between the Tablelands we saw in Gros Mornes and Mars.
So we weren’t just making stuff up when we said it looked like Mars.
The finale of the evening was the St. John’s Haunted Hike, which like the walk I went to in Halifax is a mix of historical information, walking tour and related spooky stories.
I have yet to look up whether or not St. John’s actually mandates the colourful exteriors of its houses, especially around the downtown area. It’s quite a neat effect either way, and clearly an integral part of the city’s branding if the welcome sign and all the souvenir shops are any indication.
This morning I had to get up early to take my husband to the airport, then I tried to get some more sleep (thanks jackhammer next door for, you know, making sure that I only tried), visited Signal Hill again to take in the view, and then headed off to start my long trek back across Newfoundland to catch the ferry late tomorrow night.
I am spending the night in Gander, but I did a detour to spend a few hours in the Bonavista area, where I enjoyed the spectacular coastline and to see the puffin colony near Elliston.
Which means, by the way, that I managed what I’d consider the Newfoundland trifecta: iceberg, puffins and whales!
What about moose, I hear you phantom Internet-people say. Well, I haven’t seen any moose during my time in Newfoundland, but it also turns out that they’re not actually indigenous to this province. There’s quite a healthy population around, though.
It’s my last day in Newfoundland tomorrow, which means I’ve been here for a week. It’s a great province and I’d highly recommend a visit sometime.
I imagine my next post will be from Prince Edward Island, land of potatoes and Anne of Green Gables. Once I’m there it means I’ll have been to all 10 Canadian provinces.
Victoria Paterson 